Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches
In December 2023, Breitling purchased Universal Genève and announced that the brand would return to the marketplace in 2026. Since then, speculation about the models and movements has run rampant. We still don’t have any information to share. Still, Universal Genève has announced three one-off Polerouter watches that celebrate the 70th anniversary of the SAS transpolar flights from Copenhagen to Los Angeles.
Universal Genève won’t debut serial-production models until 2026. However, the brand has announced three unique SAS Polerouter pieces that blend Genevan métiers d’art, new cases, and vintage movements. One piece will head to a Phillips auction in May 2025, and the remaining two watches will enter the brand’s archive. We were in person in Copenhagen to see the watches at a transpolar flight celebration event. Enjoy the photos!
The SAS Polerouter 70th-anniversary watches
The SAS Polerouters will look familiar to vintage collectors. The watches look identical to the Gérald Genta-designed pieces from the ’50s and early ’60s, such as the model I reviewed in 2019. That said, Universal Genève has upped the ante with these unique pieces in terms of finishing. We’ll get to that, but let’s run down the common specs.
Specs
All three watches are 35mm in diameter, 45.4mm from lug to lug, and just 9.95mm thick, which means they’re dead ringers for the original models. They have the hallmark twisted lugs, and a dose of modernity comes in the form of a cambered sapphire crystal. Some may decry this, but it allows the watches to meet a water resistance rating of 50 meters. The familiar multi-sided screw-in case back with an engraved Polerouter logo contains various inscriptions.
Restored Microtor 1-69 movements from the ’60s
The nod to antiquity relates to the use of vintage Microtor movements from the ’60s. The Polerouter owes a slim figure to these automatic calibers. Specifically, these new pieces use the caliber 1-69 with 57 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 18,000vph. It’s a welcome and appropriate choice for watches that commemorate a historic event.
The flagship white gold SAS Polerouter
The highlight of the trio is the white gold SAS Polerouter. Like the other two models, it features a guilloché rehaut but comes with a very special addition. Namely, the bracelet is worth a deep look.
Universal Genéve worked with Genevan Laurent Jolliet, the last chain-maker in Switzerland. The result is a finely detailed 18K white gold work of art that perfectly channels the jet-setting ’50s. It contains a signed folding clasp with the brand’s legendary logo.
This piece has a blue circularly brushed dial with a white gold rehaut and rhodium-plated hands. Also, note the modern and ’50s-era SAS logos as well as the new Universal Genéve logo. All in all, it’s a beautiful watch that should perform well when it heads to auction for charity.
The SAS Polerouter in 18K red gold
An archive piece uses an 18K red gold case with a black circularly brushed dial. This watch also has hands plated in 18K red gold and white printing. Unlike the auction version, this one comes with a black calfskin strap and a solid gold pin buckle.
A stainless steel piece to round out the trio
A final stainless steel edition has been made to celebrate the 1954 transpolar flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles. This watch has a silver dial and red-gold-plated hands. Once again, the watch has a black calfskin strap with a steel pin buckle.
Final thoughts
These special SAS Polerouter releases may not specifically predict what’s coming from Universal Genéve in 2026, but there are some key takeaways. First, we’ve now seen the new brand logo. Second, the idea that the company will focus on higher-end watches is exemplified by the impressive bracelet and guilloché rehauts. By the time the white gold version heads to auction in May 2025, we’ll be much closer to 2026. Let’s enjoy these three pieces for now.
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