The Updated Bracelet For The Omega Speedmaster Professional 3861 — Here Is What’s New!

Since the end of last November, the Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 (Hesalite) and 310.30.42.50.01.002 (sapphire) models have been leaving the production facility in Bienne with a long-awaited bracelet upgrade with an easy-adjustment clasp. It was long-awaited because, when the current Speedmaster Moonwatch was introduced in early 2021, it was one of the few critiques that the watch received.

When Omega introduced the Speedmaster Chronoscope later that year, it came on a bracelet with an easy-adjustment system. At that time, Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann promised that the Moonwatch bracelet would also get an upgrade at some point. Some Speedmaster fans, including our own Ben Hodges, already replaced the clasp of his Moonwatch with the one from Chronoscope (you can read about it here). But the new bracelet is here now, so let me show you how it looks and explain how to buy it (separately).

The Speedmaster bracelet upgrade

Ben’s DIY method worked, but the new bracelet with its easy-adjustment system now comes on every new Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. The problem when ordering the clasp from the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope bracelet was that you still needed a special link to connect the arm to the clasp. Unfortunately, that part (118STZ013110) wasn’t easy to order. That is no longer an issue, though, because you can order either the entire bracelet to fit your existing Omega Speedmaster Professional or just order the new clasp from this bracelet to make it work on your Moonwatch (but then you will still need the 118STZ013110 part).

The ref. 020Z017488 bracelet

But let’s take it one step back. It was all the way back in 2019 that Omega brought us a couple of new bracelets. The Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary in stainless steel (and some elements in gold) came with a flat-link bracelet inspired by the one that Omega used in the 1960s (reference 1039). Omega used the same bracelet later on with different end links for the Speedmaster Calibre 321. The bracelet we have here today, however, is based on the one from the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary in Moonshine Gold. We called it the “Nixon” bracelet because Omega offered the original gold Speedmaster with a similar-looking bracelet to US President Nixon in November 1969.

In the past, Omega used bracelets in a similar style. These included references 1116 (late 1960s/early 1970s) and 1479 (late 1980s to mid-1990s). Most Speedmaster enthusiasts were happy to see this style coming back. The previous bracelet style was used from 1996/1997 till 2020 and was often criticized for not being refined enough. It did not come with an easy-adjustment system in the clasp (although certain later models had this, like the Tokyo 2020 editions).

Differences between the bracelets

When I purchased my Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in 2021, it came with the bracelet (reference 020STZ013434) without an easy-adjustment clasp (part number STZ013815). It was only during the summer that I felt an easy-adjustment clasp would be useful, but I spoke to someone last week who told me he needs to resize the bracelet (via the clasp) at least once a day. I’ve also noticed quite a few comments from our readers about the lack of an easy-adjustment clasp on the Speedmaster Professional, so demand was definitely there. Omega listened and developed such a clasp (part number STZ013899). There are only a few differences in aesthetics and, of course, the 2.3mm extension it provides, equaling half a link.

As you can see, the clasp’s underside shows the push-button mechanism to either extend the clasp or slide it back. Using this, you can adjust the Speedmaster bracelet whenever your wrist swells or contracts. This adjustment was also possible on the previous clasp, but you needed a tool (or toothpick) to make it. With this new clasp for the Speedmaster bracelet, the holes in the clasp disappeared as they have become redundant.

It feels more solid

But wait, there’s more. As you can see in the picture above, the clasp of the new bracelet has gotten longer (33mm versus 29mm). For wearing purposes, it doesn’t change that much, but you can debate which one looks more elegant. What also has changed is the arm that connects the clasp to the other part of the bracelet. The internal parts of the clasp changed in width, the two outer arms became smaller, and the central arm (in the image above with the protective sticker still on it) became wider. When we observed the bracelets here in the office, we found that the new clasp felt a bit more solid and sturdy.

From the side, you can see that the shape of the new clasp is also slightly different. In the picture above, the new bracelet is completely slid inwards. When you extend the bracelet by pushing the button, it will show a small gap, but it’s not disturbing.

Is it worth upgrading your Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch bracelet?

The new bracelet also comes in two variations — fully brushed or with polished intermediate links. The fully brushed version is the one we showed in this article. It has part number 020Z017488. The version with the polished intermediate links has part number 020Z017493. Both Omega Speedmaster bracelets carry the same price tag of €760 (including VAT). If you have the current Speedmaster Professional with the steel “Nixon” bracelet, you can also order the clasp separately (part number 117STZ013899). If you don’t have the current Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (either the Hesalite or sapphire version) yet but are planning to buy one, make sure it has the new bracelet. The dealer might want to sell you old stock without the new bracelet (we’ve already heard some of those stories), but I would aim for the new one.

Snoopy on the left, Calibre 321 on the right

If you have another type of Speedmaster Professional, make sure the bracelet fits. Otherwise, make sure you’re okay with a slight gap between the bracelet and the watch head when putting it on the previous-generation Moonwatch. All recent models with the new case design (based on the fourth-generation Speedmaster, reference 105.012) should perfectly connect to this bracelet. These include the 2019 Apollo 11 in steel, the Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary, and all Speedmaster Professional models from 2021 onward.

The new bracelet is very comfortable and lightweight (compared to the previous generation), and it looks ace with the Speedmaster Professional. If you already have the current Moonwatch, I would only upgrade it with the new clasp if you really need to have the extension clasp for hot summers. A spare clasp will set you back just under €200. If you have the Snoopy 50th Anniversary version, getting the additional bracelet is a no-brainer.

Update (17/5/2023): The upgrade kit is now available using part number: 117Z017553 (it includes the quick-adjustment clasp, and all the required parts to mount it to your existing bracelet).