Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models

Vacheron Constantin’s anniversary celebrations do not go unnoticed. The 270-year-old horology house kicked things off in January with the stainless steel version of the Historiques 222. Yesterday, it unveiled a high-end follow-up to that release with the stunning new Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch ever created. Add the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, which also debuted yesterday, and you have a tremendously impressive trio of watches. But Vacheron Constantin isn’t stopping there. The brand also announced three 270th-anniversary Traditionnelle Openface limited editions. These watches reveal the magic of traditional watchmaking in style.

The concept behind these Traditionnelle Openface models combines two of Vacheron Constantin’s characteristic principles. The first is honoring the tradition of mechanical watchmaking by revealing the inner workings of the caliber. The second is celebrating the retrograde display, a feature for which the brand is well known. Vacheron selected the modern designs of the current Traditionnelle collection as the foundation for this. The new trio consists of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, and the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. All three models are limited to 370 pieces and come with special 270th-anniversary dials.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface

Let’s start with the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface (ref. 4030T/000P-H054). The watch adds a completely new caliber to the already-mentioned conceptual features, making it the star of the trio. It has a 41mm platinum case with a 10.94mm profile. The Traditionnelle case stands out with its fluted case back and slender bezels. The latter ensures that the dial gets maximum exposure. For all three models, Vacheron Constantin created special 270th-anniversary dials with a handmade guilloché pattern. The lines that form the pattern all come together to form the brand’s signature Maltese cross.

All three of these models feature open-worked dials. Because of this, their guilloché patterns are not as prominent as on the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that debuted yesterday. However, they do add nice details to the watches. All three dials feature the signature railway-type minute track matched with applied gold baton hour markers. Hovering above each dial are faceted dauphine hour and minute hands along with a blue arrow-tipped date hand. In this model, the latter works in conjunction with a retrograde date display.

The open-worked dial reveals the new manufacture 2460 QPR31/270 movement

As you can see, the day, month, and leap-year cycle are indicated in white on clear sapphire discs, with a deep blue background highlighting each. A moonphase display at 6 o’clock tracks the Moon’s actual cycle of 29 days, 12 hours, and 45 minutes. The display, with the depiction of the Moon based on the actual lunar surface, needs just one correction every 122 years. Lastly, the retrograde date display sits inside the hour markers on the top half of the dial. The blue date numerals match the stylish blue hand, making the date easy to read against the silver background.

Powering this watch is the new manufacture caliber 2460 QPR31/270. This complicated self-winding movement has a mere 5.45mm profile and comprises 312 components. It operates at a 4Hz frequency, has 27 jewels, and offers 40 hours of power reserve. The small pushers on both sides of the platinum case can correct the different functions.

Additionally, every component of the movement is meticulously finished by hand. Special attention goes to the bridges, which feature the same côte unique finishing as the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. Additionally, the pink gold rotor demands attention with the large Maltese cross.

Each of the 370 pieces of this new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface comes with a dark blue alligator leather strap and a platinum pin buckle. Additionally, each watch has its unique LE number engraved on the case back. Generally, Vacheron Constantin does not communicate the prices for its more complicated models, so the price for this 370-piece limited edition is available on request.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

The second of the three models is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface (ref. 6010T/000P-H055). Unlike the previous watch, this one is a new version of an existing model, the gray-dial ref. 6010T/000R-B638 in pink gold. Today’s watch features a similar 41mm platinum Traditionnelle case with an 11.07mm thickness. The case is combined with a heavily open-worked silver-tone 18K gold dial. This features the same hand-guilloché motif inspired by the Maltese cross, a railroad minute track, and white gold indexes, with white gold dauphine hands and a dark blue hand for the retrograde date topping everything off.

As you can see, the layout is fairly straightforward since the watch “just” combines a retrograde date and a tourbillon. The former sits inside the hour markers on the upper half of the dial. The tourbillon is visible at 6 o’clock and takes up a large part of the dial’s lower half. In between, you see a large space that reveals part of the inner workings of the in-house caliber 2162 R31/270.

This self-winding movement comprises 242 parts, operates at 18,000vph, and offers 72 hours of power reserve. Thanks to the stunningly finished pink gold peripheral rotor, the movement maintains a 6.35mm profile. On top of that, the finishing of the movement is once again meticulous. Besides its 270th-anniversary hallmark, the caliber features the same nicely refined “côte unique” finish on the bridges.

Lastly, this watch will also come on a dark blue alligator strap with a platinum pin buckle to complete the look. As with the previous model, the price is available on request.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface (ref. 4020T/000P-H038) completes this special trio. This one, too, is based on a model we know from the brand’s current collection. Today’s new version also features a 41mm platinum case with an 11.05mm thickness and a 30m water resistance rating. The case is matched with a predominantly open-worked dial that displays the day, date, month, and moon phases. But because it is just a complete and not perpetual calendar, it lacks the leap-year indicator.

As you can see, the blue numerals of the date display sit outside the hour markers on the dial’s perimeter. The long blue central hand accompanies the dauphine hour and minute hand to indicate the date.

Additionally, the day and month displays are similar to those on the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface. However, the sapphire discs are placed further up to make room for the moonphase display at 6 o’clock. The precision moonphase display needs adjustment only once in 122 years.

The new manufacture 2460 QCL/270 movement

The in-house caliber 2460 QCL/270 makes all the horological magic possible. This 312-component self-winding movement is a contemporary version of the brand’s caliber 2450, its first self-winding in-house movement from 2007.

As we have seen this watch in the regular collection in other executions, the movement is not new. What makes it different here is the special finishing for the 270th anniversary. Identically to other models in this trio, this watch’s movement features a 270th-anniversary emblem. On top of that, it bears the same côte unique finish. Therefore, this model is a fitting way to complete the trio.

Like the two others, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface comes on a blue alligator leather strap with a platinum pin buckle to finish the look. Also, its unique LE number is engraved on the case back. Notably, this is the only one of the trio with a published price, and it comes in at €77,000.

Final thoughts on the 270th Anniversary Traditionnelle Openface Limited Editions

Overall, these watches make for a classy trio of 270th-anniversary models. Because of the special occasion and their limited-edition status, I do not doubt that they will find their way to collectors soon. These releases are a great display of what makes Vacheron Constantin such a special brand.

While not as stunning as, say, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar or the mind-blowing Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, these three Openface editions are refined and elegant, and that is what characterizes the 270-year-old brand. They round up the series of celebratory Traditionnelle models in proper style. Therefore, we can say that Vacheron Constantin has done everything to make this 270th anniversary count.