It was only a few years ago, in 2018, when Vacheron Constantin introduced its Fiftysix collection. The line was not running with a new idea. It was instead a freshly developed interpretation of a vintage Vacheron Constantin watch. The reference 6073 came to the market in 1956, hence the model line name.

The inspiration for the case of the 6073 was the shape of the Maltese cross. It also happens to be the logo of Vacheron Constantin as well. The Fiftysix timepieces reinterpret this and many other features of that vintage reference in a “retro-contemporary style.” For this year’s edition VC released the Fiftysix with a new sepia brown-toned dial and a matching calfskin leather strap.

Fiftysix

Fiftysix

The collection is one that blends eras. From the 1950s to the late 2010s and beyond, the Fiftysix models by Vacheron Constantin bring us the best of both worlds. Their 2020 releases, just like the previous versions, take the inspiration from the vintage 6073 reference’s case material and come in an 18K 5N pink gold with a beautiful matching sepia brown dial. The 6073 was VC’s first water-resistant automatic watch and feature lugs that resembled the four branches of the Maltese cross, something the new Fiftysix models still poses.

Another notable feature is the brown calfskin leather strap.

However, maybe not as obviously as their vintage counterpart. 2 models came out from Vacheron Constantin, a self-winding and a complete calendar version, both in a 40mm case. Another notable feature is the brown calfskin leather strap. It takes the edge off of the watch’s super elegant status and puts it into the group of everyday wearers.

The original Vacheron Constantin 6073 — not the Maltese cross-inspired lugs

Self-winding

Let’s start with the simpler version. The original 6073 was a time-only, automatic watch, just like this new Fiftysix model. As such, this model is the closest in looks to its vintage counterpart and possesses an inevitable retro touch. Box-type crystal covers the sepia brown dial, a characteristic feature of the 50s. Speaking of which, the sector dial has a stunning opaline, sunburst, and snailed finishing which enhances its legibility. Just like the indexes, the pencil-style hands have luminescent coating making the Fiftysix not only super legible during the day but also at night. The watch case is 40mm in diameter with a thickness of only 9.6mm and water resistance of 30 meters. Once we’re done admiring the face we need to turn the Fiftysix and take a look at the movement through the display case back; Cotes de Genéve surfaces and pink-gold oscillating wheel.

Fiftysix

Full calendar

The time only Fiftysix is the subtle model but it’s not the only 2020 release. Vacheron Constantin also came out of a complete (or full) calendar version. The basics are the same; 40mm case, 18K 5N pink gold, sector dial with pencil hands, and raised indexes. Of course, here we have the same sepia brown-toned dial and the calfskin brown leather strap. Such a refreshing touch after those beautiful but somewhat unexciting exotic leather straps. I salute VC for this move. Now let’s move on to the calendar features.

Fiftysix

The day and month apertures parallel to each other are below the 12 o’clock marker. Just above the six is the opening for the moon-phase indication. The date is shown with a pointer hand around the dial. The movement is set in a way that no adjustment is necessary for 122 years. It’s safe to say, you will be fine with not setting this watch while it’s in your possession. If you’d like to visit Vacheron Constantin’s website, please click here.

Watch specifications

Model
Fiftysix self-winding and the Fiftysix complete calendar
Reference
4600E/000R-B576 and 4000E/000R-B065
Dial
Sepia brown-toned, opaline centre, sunburst exterior. 4600E/000R-B576 18K 5N pink gold Arabic numerals and 4000E/000R-B065 features 18K 5N pink gold hour-markers highlighted by a blue luminescent material
Case Material
18K 5N pink gold
Case Dimensions
4600E/000R-B576: 40 mm diameter, 9.6 mm thick. 4000E/000R-B065: 40 mm diameter, 11.6 mm thick
Case Back
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Movement
The movement of the FiftySix is developed and produced by Richemont’s ValFleurier.
Water Resistance
30m
Strap
Brown calfskin leather with calfskin lining and beige stitching
Functions
Hours, minutes, central seconds Date Hours, minutes, central seconds Complete calendar (day of the week, date, month) Precision moon phase
Price
€16,800/$18,700 (time only) €30,300/$33,700(calendar)
Special Note(s)
Piece only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.