Video: The Ulysse Nardin Freak Family: Find The Freak In You

It’s not often you find yourself surrounded by no fewer than six Freaks. It happened to me recently. I did receive a warning that the watches were on the way, but how do you prepare for something like that? That’s why, when I unpacked the box and had the pink gold Freak S, Freak S Noma, Freak One Navy Blue, Freak One in pink gold, Freak X Marquetry, and Freak X OPS laid out in front of me, I did start to freak out a bit. Six Ulysse Nardin Freak watches in one go are just a lot to take in. That’s why we made a video (click the play button above), and here’s an overview of the Freaks you’re about to watch in action.

When former Ulysse Nardin brand owner Rolf Schnyder and watchmaker Dr. Ludwig Oechslin unveiled the Freak at Baselworld 2001, they were probably unaware they did more than just launch a provocative watch. The original Freak can also be seen as the birth of the current Nouvelle Horlogerie genre, which includes MB&F, Urwerk, HYT, etc. However, both men were very much aware that they created a watch like nothing seen before. The Freak eschewed a dial, hands, and a crown, but it still showed time more or less traditionally. The bezel was designed to set the time, and the automatic movement could also be wound by turning the case back. Yes, it was freakishly different.

The first Ulysse Nardin Freak from 2001

The magic of the Ulysse Nardin Freak

The Freak’s movement concept was original and unique, and it continues to stand out 23 years later. It starts with the mainspring barrel, which provides a week (!) of power reserve and rotates once every 12 hours. The hour hand is a moving bridge that keeps the arbor for the hour wheel in place. It is mounted on the barrel and moves along a rack on the periphery of the inside of the case. The hour wheel also drives the central pinion, which then makes the gear train, escapement, hairspring, balance, and minute pointer complete a full rotation once per hour along another peripheral rack.

Not only was this construction innovative, but it also allowed Oeschlin to dispense of a traditional crown and devise a turning case back to wind the mainspring. It’s quite the technical concept and a wondrous visual spectacle.

Freak One: the direct descendant

The direct descendant of the original Freak is the Freak One. The latest creation in that series is the Freak One Navy Blue in a 44mm titanium and carbon composite case (US$66,800 / €67,500). This Freak’s beating — no, swirling — heart is the 229-part automatic caliber UN-240. This flying carousel movement uses Ulysse Nardin’s special Grinder system. The brand introduced Grinder technology in the InnoVision 2 concept watch in 2017, and it was designed to use even the slightest wrist movements to supply power to the movement. The system ensures automatic winding at double speed and, in the case of caliber UN-240, a 90-hour power reserve. But if you want to do something interesting and unusual, you can also wind the movement manually by turning the case back.

The movement also uses an escapement made from DIAMonSIL, a proprietary high-tech diamond-coated silicon. The black and blue colorway can be considered a camo or stealthy if you wear denim. In other words, no matter how striking when you see it up close, the large watch blends in from a distance. And because it’s made from lightweight materials, it’s also a comfy companion.

The Freak One in titanium and pink gold (US$71,000 / €71,800) is more outgoing. The first Freak appeared in yellow gold and was also a style statement. But the Freak One, with its glowing pink gold bezel with an angular design to make it easier to set the time, is also an exuberant creation that draws attention. First, it draws eyes to its detailed case design and then, inevitably, to the rose-gold-colored spinning movement.

The overwhelming Freak S

The slightly bigger Freak S models have a 45mm case. We had two of the three current Freak S models at our disposal at Fratello HQ. One was the “standard” Freak S, a limited edition of 75 pieces in a case made of black DLC-treated titanium, black ceramic, and pink gold (US$140,800 / €142,500). The second one was Freak S Nomad, which has a titanium and carbon composite case and is a limited edition of 99 watches (US$148,300 / €150,000). This one daringly juxtaposes modernist carbon fiber with a centuries-old diamond guilloché pattern. The result is a dynamic objet d’art that also tells time in the most creative of ways.

Both Freak S variants house the 373-part automatic flying carousel caliber UN-251. It has the brand’s efficient Grinder system to wind the big barrel, resulting in 72 hours of power reserve. The two angled oscillators make the UN-251 such a fascinating construction. These oscillators swing on two distinct planes at a 20° incline. They are held in place by bridges resembling a spaceship.

A spectacular differential mechanism links the two oversized silicon balance wheels with inertia blocks and DIAMonSIL escape wheels. The differential is used to draw the average rate of both the balance wheels for optimized regulation. These balance wheels operate at an 18,000vph (2.5Hz) frequency.

The Freak X is the Freak of and for the people

The nine watches in the Freak X collection might be the most confusing Freaks out there. Why? Because of several contradicting facts. The Freak X models are the most accessible, monetarily speaking. The Freak X Ti Blue features a blue PVD-treated titanium case and costs US$27,500 / €27,800, and the Freak X OPS in its striking carbon fiber case with green epoxy resin costs US$35,000 / €35,300. The 43mm case is the smallest of all Freaks and, therefore, the easiest to wear. It’s also the simplest to operate. I guess you can see why. The Freak X is outfitted with a traditional crown to wind and set the movement.

Did I hear someone shout, “Blasphemy!”? I understand the sentiment, but sometimes, the end justifies the means. This Freak can spread the word and win the hearts and minds of open-minded watch enthusiasts with a concept that has remained unique to this day. Plus, the automatic caliber UN-230 inside the Freak X is still quite complex.

The movement consists of no fewer than 405 components. It’s a self-winding caliber with a central rotor and boasts a 72-hour power reserve. Some things are still “normal” though, such as the movement’s flying carousel, with its silicon balance wheel and escapement, suspended by a bridge acting as the minute hand and a second bridge as the hour hand.

What’s the Ulysse Nardin Freak for me?

Out of the six Freak models we received, I created a shortlist of three. The Freak X OPS wears incredibly well with its cool camo look. Because of its size, lightweight construction, and fabric strap, it is a very contemporary creation in touch with the zeitgeist. The Freak S Nomad is such a fascinating and hypnotizing visual spectacle it’s hard to look away from. Its aesthetic strength lands it second place on my arbitrary list because I guess that if I wore this daily, I wouldn’t get any work done. This Freak is just too distracting.

But the Freak One Navy Blue is the Freak for me. This direct descendant pays homage to the original Freak in a striking way. It also showcases a fabulous movement and an edgy case design. An added bonus is the black and blue colorway, which matches everything I have in my wardrobe. Which Freak would you pick?

If you want a nice overview of all the Freaks currently available, visit the official Ulysse Nardin website.

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