Watches And Wonders 2024: Is This The Year I Lose Touch With Rolex?

As you may know, I am a long-term Rolex admirer. I wrote a book on the vintage Rolex Datejust, and I both own and have owned several “crowned” watches over the years. This year’s Watches and Wonders, however, sees the brand lean further into a realm that I find myself struggling to appreciate. So, as I sit in the W&W press lounge, I wonder: is this the year I lose touch with Rolex?

Although this is merely an exploration of a personal opinion, I feel this sentiment might resonate with others in our watch community. Perhaps it won’t with regards to Rolex specifically but with larger shifts in the market. If so, do let me know in the comments below!

Five-digit sentimentality

I have declared my love of the five-digit-reference Rolex generations plenty of times. To me, they were where the combination of a rugged and dependable build and old-school functional design came together in optimum form. I am talking about watches like my Explorer II 16570, the Submariner 14060, and the GMT-Master II 16710. These were purpose-built watches that flew under the radar — watches your uncle may have been wearing for three decades without anyone in the family ever noticing.

I get it; times change. Then came the maxi cases and shiny ceramic bezels for a more modern aesthetic and greater patina resistance. Although not quite my style, I still understood these watches. I could certainly see why someone might lust after them or wear them with great pleasure.

I am well aware that my preference for the five-digit era is sentimental and unrealistic. Or is it? This year’s Watches and Wonders releases from Tudor were, once again, inching closer to five-digit Rolex. You can now get your Black Bay dive watch without gilt-tone accents and faux patina, perfectly monochromatic. You can now even get it on a Jubi…ahem…“five-link” bracelet. And a Coke GMT with five-digit proportions? No problem! Even the prices are how we remember them from five-digit Rolex. So it is possible to be successful with watches like this. It is just that Rolex isn’t playing this game anymore.

Rolex at Watches and Wonders 2024

So, what did Rolex bring to the table in 2024? Well, a 44mm × 17.7mm Deepsea in solid yellow gold and a host of new precious and/or extra-iced-out Day-Date, Sky-Dweller, and Daytona options. Admittedly, there is a new colorway for the GMT-Master II as well. But don’t expect it to fly under the radar by any means. This is a luxury watch, and the world will know that you’re wearing a luxury watch.

Granted, I did write the introduction article to a rather stylish new platinum 1908 with a guilloché dial. I wrote how I looked forward to going hands-on with it. Well, I did, and guess what: it overwhelmed me with how shiny it was. It isn’t a subtle, elegant guilloché dial like on a Breguet Classique. This is an ultra-shiny feast of lightplay.

I get that Rolex is going after Haute Horlogerie brands. But there is an issue here. Rolex is, relatively speaking, mass-producing watches compared to those higher-end competitors. Consequently, these crafts get industrialized. This isn’t manual guilloché but automated engine turning. Now, don’t think it is pressed or CNC’ed. The actual cutting is indeed true to the original guilloché process. You don’t however, get that ever-so-slightly imperfect, and thus soulful, handwork vibe at all. I hate to say this, but the dial in the new 1908 is a tad ostentatious for my liking.

Is Rolex still after me?

The new Rolex watches were presented to the Fratello team at Watches and Wonders, and one rather vocal colleague (who will remain unnamed) posed the critical question. “Who is this for?” he asked about the 300+ grams of blinding gold and bright blue ceramic that is the new Deepsea. The answer was telling: “Different markets have different tastes.” Make of that what you will, but the message is clear: this isn’t for you.

This triggered me to have a long, hard look at the current catalog. If you like function-first, low-key watches like I do, you’ll find it nearly impossible to pick one. I had to conclude that I would only wear the current Explorer. For every other model, I prefer older versions. That is not a great sign for a brand I would consider myself a fan of.

From the latest drop and the answer my colleague got, I can only conclude that Rolex isn’t into me anymore. And I am afraid the feeling is getting mutual.

Who is the brand targeting?

This begs the question: who is Rolex after? New Rolex watches always tend to be better than their predecessors. Current Rolex watches are some of the best-built timepieces out there, second to very few. I wish more watches felt like modern Rolex in terms of build. However, it isn’t limited to technical superiority. Recently, new models tend to outshine their predecessors, quite literally. They are better at being fancy, ever shinier, ever larger, and ever less embarrassed about being more and more brash.

Ever-fancier watches can command ever-higher prices. And that, I think, is key here. Rolex seems to have aimed at the growing group of ultra-wealthy customers. The brand is no longer interested in the guy or gal saving up to purchase that one amazing watch to celebrate a life event. The well-informed aficionado who is passionate about the brand’s history is shoved aside in favor of the deep pockets of status-hungry nouveau riche.

So, have I lost touch with Rolex?

As long as the super-rich get richer and more numerous, this strategy will surely be the most lucrative. Who can fault Rolex for pursuing it, then? Who am I to disagree? My actual spending pattern proves that Rolex is right to not care about me. I find myself shifting to the sister brand. This was the first year that I was more curious about Tudor’s releases than Rolex’s.

But then I think about the way I felt about Rolex when I was still a vintage dealer. I remember the way I felt while gazing at old Datejust dials through my microscope, doing research for my book. I realize this Rolex still exists. However, it exists in my mind rather than in a manufacture in Geneva. Vintage and (currently) neo-vintage Rolex will remain forever, and I will remain a fan. And today’s Rolex? I am sure that the company will be absolutely fine without my infatuation.

What do you think of Rolex’s latest introductions and what they say about the brand’s direction? Let us know in the comments below!