Watches & Wonders 2021: Arnold & Son Goes Mythical With The Dragon & Phoenix
Arnold & Son drops some hard rock on its classy Ultrathin Tourbillon range. And just like the lyrics from any rousing heavy metal song, it includes references to mythical beasts. Within Arnold & Son’s case are the Phoenix and the Dragon miniature sculptures that cast a foreboding shadow over the dial.
Off-centered dials are nothing new to Arnold & Son. Its ancestral English watchmaker, John Arnold, famously crafted marine chronometers in the 18th Century. Marine chronometers typically split the functions to the north and south portions of the dials for legibility on the high seas. The movement itself stretches back to 2013. At that time, the hand-wound caliber A & S8200 was the world’s thinnest Tourbillon movement at 2.97mm. But since 2014, Bvlgari has been on a rampage of destroying records and smashed A & S’s manual-winding attempt with the caliber BVL288 at only 1.95mm in 2018. Bvlgari even managed to achieve this slim feat with automatic winding without breaking a sweat.
Breaking the mold, not records
Tapping out of the ultra-thin game is nothing to be ashamed of, though as for the new selection of Tourbillon models, Arnold & Son breath fire and ice on the dials with a pair of fantastic, finely crafted fiends. Nearest the crown is the Phoenix figurine in 18k rose gold guarding the tourbillon cage. On the opposite side is the Dragon overlapping the 8 o’clock Roman numeral of the white opal dial. Also, the Dragon is clutching the Pinctada maxima pearl within its talons, a symbol of the beast’s partnership in Chinese mythology. Each shape is roughly 20mm in length and is hand-engraved with astonishing details.
Dragon and Phoenix set against an epic backdrop
Forgive me, as I couldn’t shake the sense of watching an overly dramatic hard rock video while observing this new array of Arnold & Son timepieces. This association was primarily due to the creatures having a vibrant assortment of natural hardstones framing their silhouette. Each of the five color options of the new Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon has a genuine mineral dial with boundless unique attributes. The choices of stone range from Bronzite (orange), Eudialyte (purple), Marcasite (gray), Pietersite (blue), and Verdite (green).
Encasing each dial option is a 42mm × 8.6mm 18k red gold case with a matching 18k gold pin buckle. The large-scale alligator strap also features 18k gold thread stitching on the topside. Flipping the watch over reveals the movement via the sapphire exhibition window and features the whole gambit of finishing techniques. Chamfered bridges, polished edges, circular graining, Geneva stripes, blued screws, and a plethora of floating showcases the best Swiss craft. If you’re not one to be impressed with decoration, note the power reserve runs for a plentiful 90-hours from a single barrel – a rarity for tourbillon escapements.
Impressions and pricing
The Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Dragon & Phoenix plays to the tastes of East Asian culture. As such, I can imagine the limitation of five examples of each of the five hardstones being snapped up in quick succession within China. That said, the high price of CHF 99,000 for each iteration may allow onlookers the chance to grab one. For me, the real eye-catcher is the profoundly ingrained dial textures that play with the light shining through the open Tourbillon aperture. You can read more about the Arnold & Son editions via its website here .