Welcome Back: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith

For many of us, today’s announcement of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith represents a return to where everything began. The original Formula 1 watch from 1986 was groundbreaking, and for many collectors, it was their first luxury Swiss watch. This may sound like “PR speak,” but it rings true for me as it was, in fact, the first nicer watch I owned.

Message to TAG Heuer — it’s about damn time! I say that lovingly because I’m sure that bringing back the original Formula 1 from 1986 was a carefully considered decision. Should the watch come back differently? Should it be larger? Or should the materials differ from the original? Thankfully, as we’ll see, the new TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith has returned and is exactly as it should be.

The original from 1986

The first TAG Heuer Formula 1 arrived in 1986 and was a novel watch. It was affordable, colorful, and, importantly, Swiss. The watches, made from 1986 to 1990, used 35mm sandblasted steel or fiberglass cases. They were the first watches to be branded under the TAG Heuer name and were massive hits. The press material tells us that over three million watches were sold. It gave TAG a sorely needed injection of stability and helped them become the brand they are today.

I received one just like Nacho’s model above (the WA1211) as a gift from my aunt and wore it for years. It still manages to bring a smile to my face when I wear it on the odd occasion. Since 1990, TAG Heuer has produced many different Formula 1 models, but none were as magical as the first. Now, the magic is back with the TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith!

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith

TAG Heuer has chosen to partner with the clothing brand Kith to bring back its original Formula 1. Founder Ronnie Fieg is a well-known collector who owns quite a stable of watches. However, like many of us, the original Formula 1 was also his first nice watch, and he has pulled together an astounding collection of these pieces. From the mainstream models to the rarities, his collection runs the gamut. He’s also outspoken about his love for these watches and, let’s face it, he has a very hot brand. So, the partnership makes sense. As we’ll see, the watches have been brought back with some nods to modernity, and there are branding reminders. Still, they’re very on point.

Ten different models are being released under the new TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith line. All of the models are limited editions, and their availability differs. If it sounds confusing, it is! However, I’ll do my best to explain the differences. As far as the common points, TAG Heuer mentions that it tracked down the original case maker from the ’80s models and is using them again.

Specs

The size remains unchanged at 35mm, but the fiberglass versions have been replaced with PVD-coated stainless steel. I’m curious if the unidirectional bezels are still plastic, but it seems to be the case. If you’ve ever owned one of these watches, they were prone to wear. Thickness is 9.45mm, and the lug-to-lug is 40mm. A nice modern update is the use of a flat sapphire crystal. Water resistance is 200 meters.

The original Formula 1 has a prominent TAG Heuer shield on its screw-in case back. The new models contain a new logo blending Kith and Heuer into the shield. “Kith & Kin,” a slogan used by the clothing brand, is inscribed into the case back along with the number of pieces. Sadly, the original round plastic watch box is not making a return. Still, the packaging looks cool and features the shield and Kith branding. Concerning the 18mm straps and bracelets, TAG Heuer has updated the strap from truly uncomfortable plastic to a far more compliant rubber. The bracelet also sports a significant change away from the old clasp with a safety lock. It now has a push-button release.

The Kith-only models

There are five different Kith-exclusive models with colored cases that come with rubber straps. Note the Kith Heuer shield on the straps. Also, the script “Just Us,” a reference to Fieg’s familial circle, is on all the models above six o’clock. Each piece will be limited to just 250 and comes in packaging that matches the colorway.

The names for each model are inspired by cities where Kith currently has a boutique. The black and yellow model is “Toronto,” the all-black is “New York,” the multi-colored is “Hawaii,” the red is “Tokyo,” and the beige is “Miami.” Pricing for these models will be CHF 1,500.

Furthermore, there are two steel models on a bracelet that are Kith-only exclusives. 350 of each will be available. The blue bezel variant is named the “Los Angeles,” and the green bezel model is called the “Paris.” Note the inscribed “Kith & Kin” on the top of the case at 12 o’clock. These are also priced at CHF 1,500.

TAG Heuer-only models

TAG Heuer will sell two models exclusively in its boutiques. These models will be available exclusively in the TAG Heuer Miami AD on May 3rd before a global launch on May 6th. TAG Heuer will make 850 of each with a price of CHF 1,500.

A shared offering that is also my favorite

Finally, there is a shared model within the TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith that will be available at both Kith and TAG Heuer. 1350 pieces of the traditional stainless model with its greenish-yellow model will be available for CHF 1,500. This model will only be available on a 5-row stainless steel bracelet.

For those with very deep pockets

For those who wish for a collection of TAG Heuer Formula 1 watches that will rival Ronnie Fieg’s collection, a set of all ten watches is available in a special case. 75 of these sets will be produced and will retail for CHF 18,000.

Takeaways on the Formula 1 × Kith models

Overall, I’m thrilled that the original Formula 1 models are back on the scene. Plus, aside from the Kith-related cosmetic touches, they’re quite faithful. I like the modern touches such as the sapphire crystal and I’m even ok with the new bracelets and straps. The use of PVD instead of fiberglass also feels like a classier touch. So, what’s not to like?

Well, as you can imagine, I’m winded by the thought of another set of limited-edition watches. Even if I find these watches a bit pricey, I’m sure they’ll sell out instantaneously. Then, we can watch the silliness unfold on the secondary market. Watches that were once meant to be devoured by the masses have now become something else entirely. As far as the physical aspects of the watches, the only real “miss” is the lack of a fully lumed dial. That’s a hallmark of these watches and I’m not sure why it wasn’t included.

Final thoughts

If the availability of these TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith models is a real concern, consider two points. First, I doubt that a company the size of TAG would release a “new” model like this in such a limited series and then call it quits. I expect a regular edition to follow (note: I have zero inside intelligence on this). Who knows if they’ll also be 35mm, but I expect something in the future. Second, the used market for vintage Formula 1 models is active, but good pieces are still much less expensive than these new models. Consider whether you’ll really wear a 35mm watch enough to justify what some flipper will undoubtedly ask for one of these. A vintage model in decent condition is just as attractive. With that, I am incredibly curious to hear your thoughts on these watches and look forward to reading the comments.

For more information on the new Formula 1 × Kith lineup, visit the official TAG Heuer website.