What’s Next For Tudor? — Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot?

It’s time to speculate on the one of the fastest risers in the luxury watch universe

July 18, 2024

comments 86

The Tudor of today has a raised voice and speaks its mind loudly and confidently. It doesn’t look like the brand it was before 2012, the year in which Tudor launched the Black Bay, the foundation of the manufacture we see today. Seeing a retro-styled dive watch with a burgundy bezel at Baselworld was confusing in a way. How could an “airport brand” like Tudor suddenly have come up with a watch that perfectly captured the zeitgeist and awakened aficionados and collectors? The Black Bay revived the brand and marked the start of Tudor’s hot pursuit of stalwarts like TAG Heuer, Breitling, and Longines. Some think Tudor also has Omega in its sights. Or what about the theory that Tudor will take Rolex’s place now that “the Crown” is moving significantly upmarket?

In 12 years, Tudor has transformed from a maker of watches that no one — not even the brand itself — talked about to a brand that sponsors a Formula 1 team. The story of Tudor going from a neglected child to a relevant power player is a take on the Cinderella story. We all know fairy tales are fun, but they’re also not real. So, is the Tudor story a unique real-life soap opera with a happy ending, or is it a fairy tale people will stop believing in at a certain point?

What’s next for Tudor? Let’s first look at some numbers

As we know it today, Tudor uses bold and expensive marketing tactics to power an aggressive growth strategy that shows the brand operating well out of the shadow of its big sibling Rolex. During the dark era of COVID, Tudor’s star shone brightly. According to Jean-Philippe Bertschy, an analyst at Vontobel, an international asset management company with Swiss roots, Tudor “was one of the fastest-growing brands” during the pandemic amid an unprecedented boom in demand for Swiss watches. Furthermore, according to Bloomberg, the brand realized a 23% compound annual growth rate from 2019 to 2023 and reached sales of CHF 625 million last year.

These are impressive numbers. However, we also need to realize that steep rises are a thing of the past, not just for Tudor but also for the brands we suspect “the Shield” is competing within the marketplace. Breitling, for example, didn’t grow much last year. The brand only showed a 1% growth in sales, though volumes went down by 4%. TAG Heuer even saw a 7% decrease in sales. After a couple of years of steady and impressive growth, Tudor’s sales saw a 4% drop. And what about Omega, the brand some people in the business think Tudor wants to overtake? Well, Omega achieved a noteworthy growth in sales of 4% in 2023. Now what?

Back to life, back to reality

Perspective is everything. In the world of watches, perspectives are blurred easily by passion. Watch aficionados often suffer from tunnel vision. The hype surrounding Tudor, especially the retro-styled Black Bay models, is real, but all kinds of things go unnoticed. A plethora of watches are being bought by people who don’t care that, for instance, a particular dive watch of today resembles one from the past. So Tudor might be one of the fictive Top 3 brands catching the attention of watch fans, but when it comes to hard figures, it is not in the Top 3 of sales rankings by far. According to Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult’s latest industry report, Tudor’s sales are only about 5% of Rolex’s sales — CHF 545 million (CHF 80 million less than Bloomberg’s quoted figure) versus CHF 10.1 billion.

The report also states that Tudor sold 255,000 watches last year, putting the brand in 17th place among the top 50 Swiss watch companies in 2023. TAG Heuer and Longines are ranked higher. Longines is seventh in the ranking, and last year, it sold 1.6 million watches with an implied average retail price of CHF 1,062. TAG Heuer is in 15th place, and the average retail price of the 390,000 watches it sold was CHF 2,228. Third-placed Omega is way higher on the ranking, having sold 570,000 watches with an implied average retail price of CHF 6,573. The average price of a Tudor watch last year was CHF 3,096 after steadily increasing over the last decade.

Rise!

Tudor is not just scaling up its marketing activities; things are also on the rise on the production side. In 2021, the brand opened the first industrial facility fully dedicated to Tudor in its 100-year history. The manufacturer is physically connected to the Kenissi factory, which started making movements in 2016. The production numbers have increased and, presumably, will continue to do so. An expansion of the current site or just building something completely new could also be expected in the future. Rolex did it, so why wouldn’t Tudor?

Another increase is the average 5% price difference of Tudor watches this year. As mentioned before, in 2023, the average retail price of a Tudor watch was CHF 3,096. That was much higher than Longines’s, a bit higher than TAG Heuer’s, and well below Omega’s estimated average retail price. But just like everything at Tudor, prices continue to rise. If the price curve progresses like this, a Tudor watch will first reach former Omega and eventually Rolex price territory. The key, of course, is building more watches that belong in a higher price segment. That means more high-end, complicated chronographs worn by charismatic athletes and fewer 26mm steel “airport watches,” although selling these without any marketing effort also doesn’t hurt.

After Omega and taking the place of Rolex

The 26mm Claire de Rose is not the watch that will push Tudor to the top. That role is for the many iterations of the vintage-inspired Black Bay and the contemporary Pelagos models. The sports watch is by far the most popular type of timepiece today, and with the world not returning to more formal attire, this will continue. With the brand’s watches on the wrists of pro cyclists, America’s Cup sailors, and Formula 1 drivers, millions of people are being confronted by the products Tudor makes. These are chic, casual, sporty watches that speak to the imagination and are exactly what people seek in a timepiece these days.

Tudor can do battle on the image front with Omega. This industry veteran has a long-lasting reputation for making quality watches at a luxury price. Tudor might be 98 years old and a veteran as well, but the rebirth of 2012 has given it the image of the new kid on the block. Call it “hype” or “urgency,” but Tudor is very relevant indeed. Yes, the sales volumes went down by 4% last year, but the brand still has plenty of momentum. The plethora of special editions Tudor keeps releasing is a sign of that. In a previous article, I wondered if Tudor was forcing its hand by putting out so many special, themed, and co-branded timepieces. Not too long after that article went live on Fratello, Tudor released a retail version of the black ceramic watch thought to be a Visa Cash App RB drivers-only watch.

Steady but with moments of hype

Tudor is after the younger generation, and that strategy seems to work. Aspiring watch fans who find Rolex out of reach seem happy to “settle” for Tudor instead of satisfying their needs with an Omega. By looking at the way the “Tudoristi” react to stories on their favorite brand and comparing it to how Omega fans express themselves, the non-scientific conclusion is that Tudor trumps Omega when it comes to passion and engagement.

The trick for Tudor is to perform a delicate balancing act between hype and steady mass appeal, to be relevant between moments of hype, and, in a way, to become like Rolex. This means having a rock-solid baseline with something extraordinary happening now and then to re-energize the brand and cause a spark in interest and a peak in sales.

Tudor is the new Rolex

Rolex used to be perceived as the prestigious maker of high-end tool watches. Nowadays, though, it symbolizes success and status. To many people, a Rolex watch is the very materialization of prestige and luxury. Tudor could very well replace Rolex as the producer of the ultimate gentlemen’s tool watches — do-it-all luxury timepieces for everyday use that offer the perfect balance of quality, functionality, and luxury.

Tudor having a shared history with Rolex will continue to lead to watches that consciously and subconsciously speak to people. Eventually, the number of those who are still struggling to see Tudor as something other than the “poor man’s Rolex” will diminish. And when that happens, possibly the Black Bay that stands on the shoulders of a giant (yes, the Rolex Submariner) or more likely, the Pelagos, a contemporary Tudor original, will become a veritable icon.

Just like Cinderella

Setting Tudor free was a stroke of genius by Rolex. It proved to be a Cinderella story. Now it’s just up to Tudor to stay popular and keep the image of the people’s queen, so to speak. Its humble origins can help achieve that. Tudor can become the queen of its watch domain, with Rolex as the king of the neighboring realm. And because there is a strong bloodline, the alliance is incredibly secure. Together, the Shield and the Crown can face any adversary and hardship. Tudor is a force to be reckoned with now and, seemingly, will be an even bigger one in the future.

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What’s Next For Tudor? — Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot?

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Serious_Panther says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 11:25

Tudor is an exciting brand to follow today. While Rolex has the ultimate status, it can also be really boring…

By the way, I have thought about making a cheeky Tudor homage brand which has only “two doors”as the logo.

Reply
1. Needs.Must says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 04:19
  
  And TURDor by KENISSI Outhouse endorsed by the A-team GAGA, Beckham, and Lex are suddenly exciting? Funny but I get more excited about Hamilton, which I own in addition to ROLEXs. P.S. Judas Lex we see ya sell-out ways!
  
  Reply
  1. Serious_Panther says:
    
    Jul 19, 2024 at 15:06
    
    Someone needs to chill a bit… it’s just watches.
    
    Reply
JC says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 11:59

Nice reading. Not sure if that ‘back to reality bit,’ was a reference on the Soul 2 Soul song but thanks; now I’m blasting it in my stereo.

Reply
1. TP
  Sonar says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 08:19
  
  Haha wow. Exactly the same here.
  
  Reply
SR
SPQR. says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 13:49

Tudor’s existential problem is due to its inception by Hans Wilsdorf, it was established quite deliberately and specifically, to be “the poor man’s Rolex”. As the founder of the parent brand set up Tudor to offer Rolex quality at a lower price point as he did, then it is an impossible task to shake off that status. The continued use of “hommage” designs such as the Black Bay, Black Bay Pro and Black Bay Chronograph, Royal Day-Date etc which are simply reproductions of Rolex designs compounds the issue of perception as anything other than the “poor man’s Rolex”. But that seems to be an intentional situation from the founding father. It is something that Longines for example does not need to worry about, as Longines was never “the poor man’s” anything. In fact for a while Longines was the most pretigious brand in the world.

Reply
1. Raynaldo says:
  
  Jul 18, 2024 at 19:21
  
  You don’t think Tudor can ever move beyond a corporate mission from 100 years ago? This is a hilariously conservative position to take, as is thinking Longines will never be “the poor man’s” anything just because it was once the most prestigious watch brand. Yet here we are, Longines a shell of its past glory, and for the past several decades very much “the poor man’s” Omega, as most recently evidenced by their new colorful Conquests, a.k.a. their budget Aqua Terras, as well as the the CHF 1000 average MSRP of their watches. At those prices, Longines watches are definitely a poor man’s something. Life comes at you fast.
  
  And besides, who’s to say being “the poor man’s Rolex” is an existential problem? If anything, it seems like a very profitable thing to be. Omega has been the poor man’s Rolex for the past 30+ years and seem to be thriving as such.
  
  Reply
  1. JL
    SXM says:
    
    Jul 19, 2024 at 03:42
    
    Tudor is not 100 years old. The active company we know today as Tudor was established in 1946 by Hans Wilsdorf. And no it will not move beyond its original “corporate mission” because the ultimate owner of Tudor SA is the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, which does not stray from the vision and principles Wilsdorf set down for his watches. It certainly improves them over the years, but it doesn’t change the “mission.”
    
    Perhaps Longines has lost its glory, but Tudor never had any glory. And no amount of METAS certifications (a compliment to Omega, if there was any) will create it for the brand either. On the contrary, Tudor is doing exactly what Wilsdorf envisioned, which was to create a quasi-Rolex watch to undercut his competitors and squeeze them on both ends of the market. That’s exactly what a Black Bay Master Chronometer is.
    
    And it seems being the “poor man’s Omega” is a very profitable thing to be, judging by Longines’s market performance compared to its actual rival: Tudor.
    
    Reply
    1. Raynaldo says:
      
      Jul 19, 2024 at 18:58
      
      Ok, 78 years then. Hope you feel better now.
      
      Like SPQR, your conservatism is blinding you. A brand’s reputation and positioning are fluid. That’s the entire point of the article; it’s right there in the title. “Will [Tudor] Take Rolex’s Former Spot?” acknowledges the fact that Rolex isn’t a static entity. Hence, while Tudor will always be positioning below Rolex, “the poor man’s Rolex” doesn’t meant the same thing now as it did 78 years ago.
      
      Yet you disagree because in your eyes nothing ever changes.
      
      Comical though that you’d somehow spin Longines’ lost glory as being more admirable than Tudor’s current ambition. Comical, and also confusing. Boasting about Longines making more money than Tudor thanks to all their CHF 1000 watches sold in China and Macy’s while putting down Tudor attaining METAS certification in short order? I thought all you Omega/Longines/Swatch-loving Fratelli here were about watchmaking and not profits?
      
      Reply
      1. Brandon wood says:
        
        Jul 21, 2024 at 16:51
        
        You need some work on your debate skills. your way of discrediting factual remarks is using the word “comical”, “hilarious”, and “conservative”. Tudor is a down market rolex period, and it’s quality, fit, and finish are not up to par with Omega or Rolex.
        
        Reply
        
        endlinktolerance says:
        
        Jul 21, 2024 at 22:48
        
        He’s not wrong though. Tudor might be downmarket of Rolex, but as Rolex moves upmarket, so does Tudor. Conservative means being averse to change, so it’s conservative to believe Tudor’s standing in the wider marketplace is static.
        
        I agree with spqr that Tudor’s lack of original designs keeps them too deep in Rolex’s shadow. But their build quality is better than Omega’s. Anyone who’s whose handled a Seamaster and a Black Bay on bracelet side by side knows this. Tudor is closer to Rolex in fit and finish, and like Thomas wrote in his latest Submariner article, Rolex’s build quality is second to none.
        
        Reply
        
        SR
        SPQR. says:
        
        Jul 26, 2024 at 10:25
        
        My experience of Tudor build quality is not the same as yours. I find them somewhat “basic” and “industrial” in finishing with very simple shapes and a lot of straight lines rsulting in “blocky” looking watches, Tudor might make sold watches but they are boring and simple. Omega are on a par with Rolex for finishing except for some bracelets, although a lot of that is down to personal tastes. If you like a tapered bracelet the Diver is not for you but the Ultra Deep bracelet is superior to the Rolex equivalent. The main difference between Omega and Rolex is that Rolex use 904L steel which makes it impossible for them to obtain crisp transitions between brushed and polished finishes on the same plane. It is a metallurgical issue, the higher amounts of chromium in 904L steel cause microscopic fratures on the edges of polished and satin finishes. As a result Rolex tend to fully polish a watch case or put satin finishes on a different plane, the easiest example is where the sides of a bracelet might be polished but the rest is satin finished. Omega are masters at getting razor sharp delineation between a satin and polished finish on the same plane. The Diver case bands, the Globemaster case and others show the technique. At the end of the day both Omega and Rolex are mass-prodcued factory made watches with fit and finsih on a par with each other and brands like IWC, Breitling etc. The decision to use a type of steel that offers few real world advantages compromises Rolex’s ability to make complex shapes and finishes. 904L steel is softer than 316L steel so scratches more readily and its anti-corrosion resistance is a technical one as it would take a decade or more of constant immersion in saltwater to show any significant difference to 316L steel, add that to the issue that the high chromium content of 904L steel can cause allergic reactions in some wearers and the reason for using it looks evermore like a marketing decision. The fact that Tudor uses 316L steel but still copies the shapes of Rolex watches is strong evidence that Tudor is, and always will be, a “poor man’s Rolex” as Tudor could diverge from the strictures of Rolex design but is not able to do so because of its positioning within the Rolex conglomerate. Now that Rolex also own Carl F. Bucherer as a brand it might allow the Rolex board to use that brand to head upmarket into divergent designs and complications.
        
        Reply
        
        GP
        Skip72 says:
        
        Aug 01, 2024 at 20:43
        
        I suspect that you are simply not in the target market for Tudor. They are very different brands, and the brand identity has dramatically changed over the last decade or two. Rolex has become very much a status watch. Men buy a Rolex to broadcast status. Rolex has played to this in every way it could, particularly in choosing not to produce watches in response to market demand.
        
        This may work well for Hermes or LV in selling handbags to women, but it rubs many watch buyers the wrong way. I am older, but my wife is young and many of my friends are young. I am shocked at how many people now view Rolex the same way they view big brand labels. It is now seen as vulgar. Men over 40 may not notice this, but Rolex is now a watch that screams “Look at how I am not poor any more!” There will always be demand for such products, but the act of becoming such a brand will turn many people away from it. I cannot say where these watch buyers will go, but I do think this is significant.
        
        Tudor is not generally associated with Rolex today. It is no different than Hamilton and Breguet. Tudor is seen as its own brand, and it is seen as an affordable but good quality product. I have never heard anyone under the age of 50 ever call it “a poor man’s Rolex.” Honestly, I have never heard anyone other than old white men call anything “a poor man’s….” There is a real cultural change with such differences. People no longer denigrate those of humble origins. The overcompensating behavior associated with those desperately seeking social confirmation for one’s new status is widely looked down upon. There is no modern sin worse than trying too hard. Tudor will not be stained with this. Rolex is literally patient zero as a brand.
        
        Now there will always be people who want big brand labels on their clothing, luxury cars in the garage, especially in developing markets, but I strongly suspect that this social phenomenon will age out quickly in the West and Japan. Well-made independents or vintage watches will pull ever more desire. Tudor is ideally situated at the entry to the new luxury market. I strongly suspect Rolex will join Cadillac and other once great brands. I may be wrong, but I strongly suspect that Tudor’s current positioning is a deliberate hedge against BIG LOUD brands declining in the future.
        
        Reply
        
        joel says:
        
        Aug 01, 2024 at 23:18
        
        If you are into vintage Rolex, you will soon realize why they switched to 904L. Corrosion is very common in the older cases using 316 SS.
        
        Reply
        
        SR
        SPQR. says:
        
        Aug 02, 2024 at 16:09
        
        Depends what you are classifying as “vintage”. Assuming you mean watches from the very late 60s to early 70s then Rolex did use 316L steel as did Omega and Breitling etc. But if you mean Rolex watches up to around 1970 (for some models) they were made with 304L steel which is very likley to corrode and in fact it is no longer used except by a few “tribute” brands and cheaper brands because of its tendecny to corrode. The choice to 904L steel is simply an aesthetic one as it looks more like white gold when polished. Other than that it is softer than 316L steel, the high chromium content makes it harder to machine accurately (hence Rolex mostly just polish cases) and the high nickel content causes some people to have an allergic reaction. There are also different grades of 316L steel which are as corrosion resistant as 904L steel.
        
        Reply
  2. Woke-N-Broke says:
    
    Jul 19, 2024 at 04:04
    
    Then how to you explain Longines beating Tudor 85% of the time on Fratello Sunday Battles voted in by Fratelli, never mind the Morgan Stanley sales stats!
    
    P.S. SPQR is right on point saying that “Longines was never “the poor man’s” anything”.
    
    Reply
  3. MG
    maciej-g says:
    
    Jul 19, 2024 at 08:29
    
    I–as I said in my comment–think it can, and it should. But it is tricky, because –to quote myself–for Tudor to remain Tudor they need to retain this heritage. To become something more than a (very good, I don’t disagree) quasi-Rolex they need more originality–these two contradict each other–but again Tudors are so popular and so praised that it is probably just my own problem, really.
    
    Reply
    1. Needs.Must says:
      
      Jul 19, 2024 at 18:46
      
      Turdor’s only “heritage” is ripping off Rolex designs and thriving off consumer confusion – the essence of a parasite brand.
      
      Reply
      1. SR
        SPQR. says:
        
        Jul 28, 2024 at 19:24
        
        Tudor do not “rip off” Rolex designs. That phrase implies unauthorised use of the design. Tudor exists solely to sell a Rolex design, albeit an old one, to those who want a Rolex but cannot afford one, do not want to join the silly Rolex game of buying things you do not want to get the thing you do, or who would rather not get robbed.
        
        Reply
  4. Darryl Patton says:
    
    Jul 23, 2024 at 22:34
    
    and they’re sold at Macy’s!
    
    Reply
  5. D says:
    
    Jul 24, 2024 at 23:48
    
    Don’t confuse “corporate mission” and “brand positioning” (a common mistake).
    
    The mission remains as it always was: Capture the market for watches roughly half the price of their Rolex counterparts. In the beginning, that was also its brand positioning/value proposition. However, as Rolex’s own positioning (and the watch market in general) have evolved, so too must the Tudor message. That can remain fluid and its role as “the Rolex you’d have bought in the 90s, if you’re into that” is much more fitting for today’s market and a better way to win the business of those looking to spend half of what a comparable Rolex would cost, which has been the mission all along.
    
    Reply
2. TP
  Sonar says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 08:32
  
  I feel that poor mans rolex thing only applies to people that were into watches well before 2012.
  
  I got hooked well after 2012 and to me Tudor has always been the aspirational, cool brand that released the new best thing every year.
  
  Rolex is an investment piece that you cant buy anyway. Omega is the speedy and maybe 3 models that have been around forever. Longines was a mall brand that only recently stepped up. Tudor is fresh, daring and the new big thing
  
  Thats how I experience it at least
  
  If you have seen Tudor at airports next to cologne and sunglasses for decades I can totally imagine its difficult to shake that image
  
  Reply
  1. Mark says:
    
    Jul 20, 2024 at 06:20
    
    Well said. If anything it’s ‘the available Rolex’ since many didn’t ‘build a relationship’ with a Rolex AD (or have a dad or granddad who did) and refuse to pay silly grey market prices.
    
    Reply
    1. Needs.Must says:
      
      Jul 24, 2024 at 01:34
      
      BS, I was offered a desired Rolex of my choice, with ZERO purchase history from the AD in another state. I declined because my local AD came through faster.
      
      Reply
      1. Needs.Must says:
        
        Jul 24, 2024 at 17:57
        
        *My very 1st Rolex fron local AD was with ZERO purchase history as well.
        
        Reply
  2. SR
    SPQR. says:
    
    Jul 26, 2024 at 10:05
    
    You need to do some homework on Longines. It is most definitely not a “mall brand”, from the 1920s until the 1960s Longines was one of, if not the most, prestigious brand outside of the “Holy Trinity”. When Charles Lindbergh became the first man to fly solo across the Atlantic in 1927 he wore a Longines to help him navigate. From that moment on he became the world’s first superstar and Longines became the brand everyone wanted to wear. (I always think Hans Wildsdorf must have been kicking himself that he did not provide a watch to Lindbergh. I almost picture him like Slugworth in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory trying to wheedle his way into Lindbergh’s good graces, but that is off point). The quartz crisis caused the downward turn for Longines and many others as has been well documented. Tudor was and always will be in the shadow of Rolex, it was intended to be that way and the designs Tudor are pumping out prove the point, all of them are Rolex clones with lesser movements and derivative designs. Essentially Tudor are Rolex’s “in-house” Steinhart.
    
    Reply
    1. GP
      Skip72 says:
      
      Aug 01, 2024 at 20:53
      
      Longines has not been that brand for over fifty years. I would love to see some new 30CH or 13ZN watches released, but I will not hold my breathe. I have bought many beautiful Longines from that period, but it ended long ago. Your view of Tudor is dated. The last Tudor Datejusts sold in the US decades ago, literally in the previous century.
      
      My father often has this point of view. He thinks Cadillac is the best car ever made. My father will tell you that Cadillac is the car. Rolex is the watch. But that view is a dying one. Those who hold it will hold it until they die, but they will eventually leave the watch market. Longines has not been an impressive brand since it was acquired by Hayek and his bankers. At that time, yes, Tudor was simply a Rolex with a more humble movement. But since quartz, the Rolex movement is no longer so special anyway. There are no mission-critical mechanical clocks or watches anymore. That ended over half a century ago, around the same time Longines faileda and became part of SSIH.
      
      Reply
3. Serious_Panther says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 13:49
  
  Funnily, the way Longines is positioned largely today by the Swatch Group, they’re often a poor man’s Tudor.
  
  Reply
4. ssor says:
  
  Jul 25, 2024 at 10:45
  
  Yours missing the point though. In fact, many are missing the point. I wear a Rolex with short sleeves and there’s a very high chance someone will try to rob me. I wear a Tudor and I’m not so worried. I wear Tudor walking in the park in the summer and Rolex in work or events with long sleeves
  
  Reply
  1. Needs.Must says:
    
    Jul 25, 2024 at 19:27
    
    I hear you on Rolex with short sleeves. Here in NYC, it is not recommended; for such instances, I wear Hamilton or Vostok. Outside NYC, like North/South Fork and Shelter Island, are safe.
    
    Reply
    1. GP
      Skip72 says:
      
      Aug 01, 2024 at 20:56
      
      I lived in Manhattan for over a decade, and I have no idea what “North / South Fork” means. I never felt like Manhattan was unsafe, but I did leave over a decade ago. Perhaps the “Fork” people invaded and starting robbing individuals of their watches.
      
      Reply
    2. Needs.Must says:
      
      Aug 02, 2024 at 12:52
      
      My post mentioned “outside NYC”. Forks stand for North/South (Hamptons) Forks of Long Island and Shelter island located btw the Forks. These are wealthy and safe areas. Had u lived in Manhattan “over a decade” u would know about them or visited them and not write nonsense.
      
      Reply
  2. Needs.Must says:
    
    Jul 25, 2024 at 19:28
    
    https://robbreport.com/food-drink/dining/restaurant-thefts-nyc-rolex-patek-philippe-1235698756/
    
    Reply
Carl Janeson says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 14:07

I’m not sure what the point of this article is. I like the analysis in relation to Omega and Rolex but how on earth do you write a piece on Tudor without mentioning or showing a photo of the Pelagos, easily their best and most interesting watch?

Reply
1. TW
  Berlin_Tony says:
  
  Jul 20, 2024 at 13:00
  
  Schusshh – We are hoping that the great unwashed don’t notice the Pelagos & the prices drop nicely
  
  Reply
TW
Berlin_Tony says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 14:09

How many of these were bought in the hope that it would improve their owners’ chances of getting a Rolex from the AD?

Reply
1. DM
  Macallan says:
  
  Jul 18, 2024 at 20:37
  
  Exactly.
  
  Reply
2. MG
  maciej-g says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 08:29
  
  So… how many?
  
  Reply
DM
Macallan says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 14:44

Previous point: I don’t like Rolex, Omega or Tudor, so I am very comfortable here.
In my opinion Tudor is completely hyped, specially in the press. Even here at Fratello, where every week has an article with Tudor models and it’s openly called “The King of the -5.000 euro segment”.
I’m glad that Lex did the proper context of Tudor situation in the market and their position relative to other watch brands. For a brand under Rolex umbrella, with a huge marketing budget and present on all Rolex dealers, being 17th with 255.000 watches sold is almost laughable and it’s a poor result. This is not an opinion, it’s a fact, it’s the raw reality that numbers give.
With this I don’t mean that Tudor are bad watches, at all. They have a number of good watches with nice movements and that had a good price in the past. But as a brand (that is what defines final sales, the brand as a whole) they have a poor, bad designed and repetitive collection. Some Black Bay and Pelagos models are nice, but those are a small part of the sales, outside the enthusiast “bubble”. Hardly any Tudor retailer will say that they are “The Kings” of the segment by any perspective. Of course they are happy because now they sell something, and before they didn’t sell at all but they had to carry Tudor to please Rolex.
The Tudor hype had his peak in 2021 and 2022 exactly when the Rolex values peaked, because many flippers and “investors” were expecting some Tudor models to be sold above retail. That never happened, in 2023 the market revealed that and the used Tudor prices have fallen, dragging the new Tudor sales with them.
Tudor is a nice brand, has some watches that are great, but please don’t give them an importance that they don’t have.

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1. Woke-N-Broke says:
  
  Jul 18, 2024 at 20:30
  
  100%
  
  Reply
2. TV
  tmvu13 says:
  
  Jul 20, 2024 at 18:01
  
  Well said. Tudor’s hype is built on celebrity branding and people not being able to buy Rolex.
  
  Reply
3. MM
  mpmiller30 says:
  
  Jul 22, 2024 at 12:48
  
  Facts are a funny thing. Well written post that articulates an accurate picture of the current Tudor business
  
  Reply
4. GP
  Skip72 says:
  
  Aug 01, 2024 at 21:08
  
  I can only speak for what I see in the urban American market. Tudor seems considerably more popular with a younger crowd. Rolex seems to have become a very positional good. I have no doubt there are many every day people trying to buy a Rolex, but the brand equity has changed dramatically in recent years, starting before Covid. I see Tudor as part of a different market segment. There very well may be Rolex guys who have a bunch of Tudors at home that they never wear, but I have never met one, or seen one, or heard of one. Most of these watches can be bought in the secondary at a premium less than the cost of two Tudor models, so why buy Tudors hoping to get a Rolex? It does not make sense to me.
  
  I do know people who bought Datejusts for their wife or daughter, hoping to get a GMT, but most people just suck it up and buy one from an online dealer at a premium. I could be wrong, or this could just be outside of the US. I know the retail experience varies by market. Again, I could be wrong, but I have a hard time imagining that Tudor only exists to prop up Rolex AD’s.
  
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OMLUP says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 14:46

Tudor makes excellent watches, and that is indisputable. However, I believe a significant portion of their growth can be attributed to questionable marketing practices.

In my country, purchasing a popular Rolex from an authorized dealer (AD) often necessitates the purchase of another watch, as all ADs have their own Tudor boutiques. This has been my direct experience while attempting to acquire a GMT Master II.

If you doubt my experience, consider that many gray market dealers in my area sell brand-new Tudor watches from ADs at discounts of 40-50%. Why would someone buy a new Tudor and sell it immediately if they were not dealing with a problematic AD like I did?

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1. TP
  Sonar says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 08:36
  
  Which grey dealers are that? Seriously interested 🙂
  
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DavidS says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 15:01

Lex very compelling article thank you. No one really knows what Rolex has in store for Tudor nor the strategy. My thoughts are that Tudor will not be positioned to what Rolex once was due to the name on the dial, yet I do think they can and will position themselves to Omega and just ahead of top end micro brands.

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Needs.Must says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 15:21

Lex, you are officially in Tudor’s pocket now – telling Tudoristi what they want to hear and joining/covering their biking team. You lost all my respect for your fierce journalistic objectivity and credibility went down the toilet. The truth is in the Morgan Stanley report; the rest is make-believe.

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John Holland says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 15:31

Great article Lex!

I began my watch journey as a die hard “Rolexisti”, if there is such a thing. The Rolex shortage though has helped me “see the light”, per se that there are so many great watches out there. I now am the proud owner of JLC, Omega, Hamilton, & others along with my Rolex collection.

The couple on my watch list, no pun intended, are the Cartier Santos and TUDOR GMT.

I would not consider myself in the young crowd, mid 50s, and TUDOR resonates with me as a much more affordable, great quality, luxury watch.

I just hope they don’t continue their recent pricing strategy. I am all for a company making a profit, but 10%+ increase year over year is excessive.

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1. Needs.Must says:
  
  Jul 30, 2024 at 16:09
  
  Stripping Cartier and Tudor to the bone reveals Val Fleurier & KENISSI outhouses = CRINGE
  
  Reply
  1. GP
    Skip72 says:
    
    Aug 01, 2024 at 21:10
    
    My friend has a Santos skeleton, and the movement is quite attractive. I could imagine selling a hunk of my collection and buying one.
    
    Reply
SC
Tam O’ Banter says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 15:53

And 87 comments follow…..not one of which provides any new information or previously unexpressed opinion.

I’ll pass this time.

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1. VC
  Victor777 says:
  
  Jul 18, 2024 at 17:05
  
  Mr. O’Banter you just hurt my feelings🥲
  
  Reply
  1. MG
    maciej-g says:
    
    Jul 19, 2024 at 08:31
    
    And mine…
    
    Reply
2. Enuona says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 11:47
  
  By the look of it, the general picture is that there is a significant production / sales gap for factory watches not relying upon shortage. As far as Tudor goes, the only ones of interest to me are FXD and Ranger, which are very available. Have checked a few BB`s too, and most if not everything is easily available.
  
  The last 3 months, preowned Omegas (Moonwatch, 300M and Aqua Terra) shows clear signs of dropping in this market too, they more or less kept up until then. Tudor is showing some signs of drop in preowned value as well, and the FXDs and the Ranger are certainly dropping notably.
  
  As far as I gather, both Swatch Group and Tudor have saturated their markets.
  
  Tudor seems to have chosen sponsorships as an expansion strategy, but it might be wise not to exclude the likes of Tag Heuer. If the rumors are true, they will spend vast amounts for F1 starting next season, and the owners have deeeeep pockets. The Arnaults wants to play, and they are in it for the long haul.
  
  https://www.swatchgroup.com/en/services/archive/2024/half-year-report-2024
  
  People who prefer Tudor will purchase Tudor regardless, and people who prefer Omega will purchase Omega regardless. The specific (base) watches are as good or as bad as they are as both are unlikely to cut on quality, and whether the prices drops or raises at retail or preowned they are just as good/bad as they are.
  
  The rest is just a turf war, fans and brands alike.
  
  Sometimes puzzled by the value perspective for A LOT of watches. The reality is than few are rare, and most are in fact factory watches manufactured in large quantities priced way above what`s reasonable for what these watches actually are. The premium on value/status of any given watch is what people perceive it to be, it`s the value of the production/popularity ratio and not the watch itself.
  
  In general, it would probably be a good idea to purchase watches one likes, with performance/quality one is happy with, at a price that is palatable. Trust your taste and preferences and let the stocks and markets live their own lives.
  
  Reply
3. 010 says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 21:37
  
  Serious question:
  Whats the difference between you making no comment and making one of your usual comments?
  
  Reply
tudor_addict says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 16:13

Tudor makes amazing watches with brilliant quality, and is still holding an accessible price in a market where pricing has exploded. I love my collection dearly, and will often wear the Black Bay over the Submariner, as its more “me” and less flashy than its older brother. I think TUDOR exists to give the Hans Wilsdorf foundation an even wider reach across the market, so I don’t see them going up, as they are deliberately taking share from Breitling and Omega. Anyone looking for a Smiley Dial Black Bay should check out Kibblewatches. The Blue one seems to be the unsung hero of the original trio, so you never know, it may be a prized collectable one day. Certainly cherish my Black Rose, and will not be parting with it!

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1. 010 says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 21:39
  
  You think Tudor exists for the very reason Hans himself stated why he created the brand?
  Some real insight there.
  
  Reply
  1. Tudor_addict says:
    
    Jul 20, 2024 at 07:31
    
    Looks like you had a productive Friday night matey
    
    Reply
VC
Victor777 says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 16:20

There’s a perception that Tudor has a “Black Bay problem,” with too many variations of the same model flooding the market. This may be leading to decreased exclusivity and interest from watch enthusiasts. Tudor watch prices in the secondary market have been dropping, indicating a potential oversupply or decreased demand. More importantly, the hype bumps associated with new releases are shorter-lived than ever. Their quasi-vertical integration model should help them adjust better than others in an economic slow-down but their price bracket is the most vulnerable. I think they make solid watches, but I would only buy them on secondary markets where minty pieces with remaining warranty can be found at a 30% discount. You say Tudor is the new Rolex, but how long did it take Rolex to build their image? And what’s going to happen if Subs become easier to find at retail? I don’t have an answer, but I have reasons to believe that in the current market conditions, Tudor will return to the mean or slightly below and stay there for the foreseeable future. I did a few price elasticity studies in recent years, and I wouldn’t want to be a product strategist for Tudor or any other brand operating exclusively in this price bracket.

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MG
maciej-g says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 16:44

They do make very good watches, no doubt… Their origins are a bit problematic… however, I am being convinced otherwise by other Fratelli, so perhaps it’s just me.

For Tudor to remain Tudor they need to retain this heritage. To become something more than (very good) quasi-Rolex they need more originality–these two contradict each other–but again Tudors are so popular and so praised that it is probably just my own problem, really.

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1. Douglas Waterbottom says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 19:55
  
  With how you comment on every single story, I would say it appears that most brands aren’t up your alley, Macie. Curious to which brands meet your standard and sit in your watch box.
  
  Reply
  1. MG
    maciej-g says:
    
    Jul 30, 2024 at 15:09
    
    Douglas, sorry for the belated response–holiday season… that is absolutely not true. I write both comments of critique and of admiration, I estimate 50-50. I can only guess that the citiques get much more response and are therefore more visible and falsely suggest my dislike for most watches and brands–but I think my dislikes are sometimes (often?) as strong and emotional as my likes–perhaps probably unnecessarily strong and emotional, I admit. But it is totally not true otherwise why would I be here?
    
    Obviously liking or admiring a brand does not mean I like all (or even most) of their watches–this is impossible and to make things even more complicated–I might dislike and disagree with some more general strategies from a brand I really like!. Similarly disliking a brand does not necessarily mean it does not have a piece of two which I–perhaps not exactly personally like, but at least appreciate. And there are those (few) brands which I strongly dislike including all their creations. And obviously there are many individual pieces from all sorts of brands which I like for some reason.
    
    So which brands I definitely like or admire (at different price points and to various levels of liking and for various reasons… I can elaborate on each but I worry this would take too much time and space and perhaps bore the reader–but not the writer, so feel free to ask if you are interested, I will be happy to talk)…
    
    Grand Seiko. Breguet. Longines. Omega. IWC. Zenith. Nomos. Oris. Citizen. Jaeger LeCoultre. Fortis. Chronoswiss. Fears. Hentschel. And there are obviously the uber-high-end ones like Laurent Ferrier, Ferdinand Berthoud, Gronfeld, etc…
    
    Reply
2. 010 says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 22:15
  
  Hans was pretty clear his original intention was for Tudor to be a brand for those who could not AFFORD a Rolex at an AD but could afford most of the Rolex parts bin made cheaper with an ETA movement. Today many people feel the need to see Tudor as a watch you obtain because you can’t BUY a Rolex at an AD. Perhaps what is problematic is Tudor is now using its own in house movements (this is not a cue for the Kenissi outhouse guy) which makes it now appear as its own brand and therefore compared differently in terms of status (and c’mom thats what we are talking about.) So it has become more like Kia to Lexus which is different than say a Toyota Camry to Lexus relationship as Hans intended.
  
  Reply
  1. RL
    Rodney John Luckwell says:
    
    Jul 21, 2024 at 17:00
    
    Interesting that you mention the Rolex parts bin ,as all the parts were made by other makers.
    Rolex were never more than an assembler of watches until recently.
    
    Reply
  2. D says:
    
    Jul 24, 2024 at 22:06
    
    Back then, both Rolex and Tudor were about meeting physical/professional needs (reliable timekeeping that could withstand water, dust, and shocks). Different levels (mostly in terms of movement quality) came at different price points. But today, any mechanical watch is about meeting psychological needs. The I-can’t-afford-a-Rolex-Rolex does not accomplish that the way it did the more quantifiable needs it used to.
    
    That’s because a Tudor was how you got Rolex reliability without the Rolex price. That doesn’t translate to today’s market, where one would be looking for Rolex prestige without the Rolex price (by nature virtually impossible). So, Tudor has to be about something else. I think much of that has been accomplished by (subtly) fashioning it as “a ‘traditional’ Rolex” instead of a “lesser Rolex” thanks in large part to recent Black Bay iterations. The BB Pro, BB58 GMT, and BB 41 are leaning directly into that. The BB54 goes back even further, into four-digit territory.
    
    Reply
    1. GP
      Skip72 says:
      
      Aug 01, 2024 at 21:19
      
      I think prestige is the key term there. Rolex is now a brand that solely exists to broadcast one’s status. While I understand how important that is to some people, especially in many developing countries, it does not appeal to much of the market. That transition from a quality product to a flashy one will have consequences. There will always be a guy who must drive a Lexus, but there are also men who will pay for the loaded Toyota Camry because he will never, ever be seen driving a Lexis. I suspect that this difference will be a driver of many product choices going forward. There exist many people who would never want to be caught desperately seeking out status or prestige in the form of products.
      
      Reply
3. TV
  tmvu13 says:
  
  Jul 20, 2024 at 18:04
  
  Exactly, they need to to create their story and heritage. Being the poor man’s Rolex isn’t the heritage you want to build on.
  
  Reply
VC
Victor777 says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 17:00

You’ll get sued just like the Relax guys who had to change the broken coronet logo on their parody watches. https://relaxwatchshop.com/

Reply
MN
Tempus_Fugit says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 17:28

Instead of continuously apple polishing Tudor, why didn’t you mention how much is a Tudor Black Bay Chrono Pink going for on Chrono24? A Shameless total Rip Off,a Scam targeted at fools and that’s only the beginning….

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1. Russell says:
  
  Jul 18, 2024 at 20:08
  
  Only watch flippers are buying these watches above MSRP. I have seen several go across watch flipper sites and the prices are plummeting quickly. Initially they were selling for $20k+. The latest ones are around $12k which is ridiculous for a sub $6k MSRP. Interesting watch but not at those prices. Watch flippers are the problem. True enthusiasts can’t get the models they want. I refuse to pay above MSRP for any watch.
  
  Reply
2. 010 says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 21:41
  
  Sir, this is a Wendy’s. but seriously.
  Watches are inanimate objects. They don’t price themselves and then list themselves on Chrono24. People do. So why are you angry at Tudor?
  
  Reply
PS
PSmith says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 18:22

Together, my wife and I own several Rolex watches but zero Tudor watches. Most of the premium Tudor watches today cost more than many of our non-gold Rolex watches back when we purchased them new from the AD. A sign of the times but a big pill to swallow should we ever choose to buy a new Tudor watch. We’d be happy to overcome our reluctance and break a few of our self imposed “rules” for a new, vintage-size Tudor Submariner without any faux patina.

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DG
soboy says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 20:06

I think Rolex plans to make Tudor into what Rolex was in the 1990’s – prestigious tool watches that are still within reach of the average middle class person. As for me, I will never sell my BB58 – I love it and wear it far more often than my 124060 Sub.

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D says:

Jul 18, 2024 at 21:07

The truth is that Rolex used to be a watch one *needed* for certain activities – diving, traveling, climbing, etc. The ability to partake in the activity was the luxury that set one apart from the crowd (in terms of means), not the watch they wore to do it. That time has passed, and to stay relevant, Rolex has reinvented itself over the years. Much of the direct association with those activities has been lost but there’s still a segment of the market that appreciates them. That’s the Tudor audience today – those who want a successor to the “Rolex you needed” (vs the one you bought to show off).

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Douglas Waterbottom says:

Jul 19, 2024 at 02:24

I’ve always admired the 14060m from a far and read Michael Stockton’s article on his at least once a year. For me it was my grail. That is till last week when my wife wanted to celebrate my 30th with a watch purchase. With our price range being 4k, I immediately thought of Tudor and messaged a few AD’s near where we were vacationing, mostly looking for the 925 BB58. One had it, but on leather which was fine but being at a beach I would have preferred it on a NATO. Planning on going in town the next day to see it & make a purchase, I asked if they happened to have the BB54 in stock and they did.

Upon seeing it in person & trying it on I was smitten. To be gifted by my wife was just the cherry on top. I’m excited to have this on my wrist for the next 60 years.

Additionally, while aluminum bezels are thought to be inferior to ceramic, I’ve always perfected them. This is coming from a person who has somehow managed to scratch several sapphire dials so I’m sure I would have managed to scratch a ceramic bezel. While I’m sure my aluminum bezel on my BB54 will wear over time, I’m not expecting perfection and know it’s an easy replacement.

I can say, despite being in the honeymoon period, the BB54 has washed away my lusting of the 14060M. It fits me like a glove that I know the sub wouldn’t.

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1. AF
  Freeza says:
  
  Jul 19, 2024 at 10:35
  
  Great story. Hope you enjoy the watch for years to come!!
  
  Reply
DG Scott says:

Jul 19, 2024 at 16:37

Reading through these comments (or any comments in articles related to watches), it occurs to me that watch enthusiasts are a lot like the employees of the Marketing Department of the Sirius Cybernetics Corporation, which the The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy describes as: “A bunch of mindless jerks who’ll be the first against the wall when the revolution comes.”

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fS
Nidraf1944 says:

Jul 21, 2024 at 09:38

“Poor man’s Rolex” and now “airport brand ” ?? Using the same 1980s terms with Tudor is so boring , and always quoting what Hans Wilsdorf said 80 years ago about Tudor. Can we please move on now. A Tudor Sub in the late 60s cost around 100 Dollars and a Rolex Sub 150, that is not even as far away as today, so how could it have been something for a poor man??? And Rolex was not even expensive then and no wait list!!! People that made Rolex kinda cool in 1960s would never be waiting on any list to buy them for that price now. That brand is so boring on overhyped! If you want a tool watch now get a Casio, Seiko, Citizen oder Sinn. Tudor at least has charm and makes some watches like the Pelages that are new.

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1. Brandon Wood says:
  
  Jul 21, 2024 at 17:01
  
  People that made it cool in the 60’s wouldn’t wait? Yes they would. They would also wait today for the Ferrari or Porsche they wanted today.
  
  Reply
  1. fS
    Nidraf1944 says:
    
    Jul 21, 2024 at 19:25
    
    Ferrari or Porsche? In the 60s Rolex was not like Ferrari or Porsche. You could just go and buy no wait list for steel sports watches, even a discount! So no they would not wait. Rolex now is maybe like Porsche and Ferrari with wait list and back ground check.
    
    Reply
SB
DoricSpiker says:

Jul 21, 2024 at 09:53

Nice to read some comments picking up a segment of the market I think this article has missed. Lots of people like aluminium 39/40mm steel tool sports watches. The decision for them is new Tudor or 20 year old Rolex with rattle. Lots go new Tudor as generally a third of the price as well.
Not convinced they are after Omega specifically. Omega do loads of ceramic bezels like Rolex.

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DC
PdxOm4me says:

Jul 23, 2024 at 20:12

While I did read the article, to answer the questions in the headline, No and No.

Tudor had a great couple years during Covid. It could have been the new products, the lack of access to Rolex, or overall increase in watch buying, but Tudor had buzz.

Based on my little part of the world as viewed through my local dealer and seeing watch sales, people don’t hold onto Tudor. They were bought and sold again within one to two years.

Is it because buyers thought Tudor would get pulled up in value by their connection to Rolex or because they weren’t actually liked (they are bulky and not comfortable), I don’t know because I could never warm up to them enough to buy one, although I had many opportunities at below retail.

The future of Tudor is an interesting question. But the question for me is not how far they will rise, but how far will they decline?

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James Sandy says:

Jul 27, 2024 at 09:27

If the cost of your watch is more important than the what the watch offers, you need to assess your life choices.

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AS
guppydriver says:

Jul 29, 2024 at 17:04

I’m not a Tudor or bust kind of guy. To be honest, I prefer Omega most of the time. That said, I tried on the Monochrome BB recently. I can honestly say that it is the closest watch I have ever seen to being a modern 5 digit Sub mariner replacement. Tudor is clearly doing things right and they have a penchant as of late for “listening” to watch aficionados demands. My only hope is that they stay in that sub $5k sweet spot that has been so lucrative for them.

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GP
Skip72 says:

Aug 01, 2024 at 20:24

I have always been a big Tudor fan. They offer many good quality, non-pretentious watches, which is an increasingly rare trait among Swiss watch brands. More importantly, they actually sell watches. There is no false scarcity BS. I suspect Rolex will pay a steep price for the last few years. Rolex may not realize it yet, but they have upset so many new potential customers with their unethical sales tactics. Furthermore, the DB factor is so large for the brand now that it may be a major obstacle down the line. Older watch guys may not be aware of this. Rolex executives clearly are not. I observe parallels with the Cadillac car brand in the US in the 1980’s. They were dominant in luxury cars, but they were not changing with public tastes, and they lost almost all of their business as their average buyer age relentlessly rose higher and higher.

Tudor is free of this association now, and I think it is great. They make quality watches at fair prices, and they produce the watches their customers want without the foul sales tactics one associates with luxury women’s hand bags. Tudor should be well-placed to grow. I would love to see more models released. Omega keeps moving up market, but I am not sure that their customers are willing or able to move with them. Tudor could gain considerably ground. I feel like Tag Heuer is targeting a very different market segment. Similarly, Longines strikes me as being more a dress watch shop, with only the Spirit truly competing with Tudor. If anything, all of those brands could do well, but Tag Heuer has some real pricing issues, but perhaps I simply misunderstand their market.

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Kelui Zok says:

Aug 07, 2024 at 01:09

I believe Tudor’s recent success is due to the fact that it rode the vintage watch craze. Credit to Hans Wilsdorf R&D folks for predicting that frenzy if they were looking for it.

Thanks to Tudor, Rolex is able to profit off its former designs without compromising its current image. This is clever marketing, as compared to Omega & other brands who dont have a “sister brand” through which they could achieve this. I think Breitling is going to try – considering it just acquired Universal Geneve – but the heritage connection simply isnt there.

Will Tudor overtake Omega? We live in an attention economy, & now that Tudor has the spotlight, I believe they will try. The production of more modern looking watches & movements signifies that Tudor is beginning to test the waters of coming into its own – as far as it can go without straying from the path or stepping on the toes of “big brother.”

Im a Tudor fanboy. I prefer modern construction with vintage design so unless Rolex comes out with a 5513 that runs <0.5s per day and doesnt instill panic in me everytime the skies cloud over; or a regular production steel day-date for that matter, then I am happy with my bb58 & prince date+day.

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