Zenith Celebrates Its 160th Anniversary In Style With The New G.F.J.
For a long time, Zenith kept us guessing about what its celebratory 160th-anniversary release would be. But if you know something about Zenith, the social media posts hinted at something special related to the brand’s rich history in observatory chronometer competitions. With the release of the Zenith G.F.J., the watchmaker from Le Locle brings its legendary caliber 135 back to life. Zenith created a modern version of the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. It powers the G.F.J. that proudly carries the initials of Zenith’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, and does so in style.
Before we get into the details of the new Zenith G.F.J., it will be good to take a look back in time. Many of us relate Zenith’s history to the development of the brilliant El Primero movement. But true fans also know that the brand has a rich tradition of creating some of the most precise and reliable timepieces ever. It’s a quest that founder Georges Favre-Jacot defined. He put it a bit more simply, though, by stating that he wanted to create “the perfect watch.” The Zenith name reflects this quest since it refers to the highest point in the sky. This new Zenith G.F.J. limited edition combines a tribute to the founder in name and appearance with a caliber honoring the brand’s most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions.
The story of the Zenith G.F.J.
As most of you will know, in the 19th and 20th centuries, observatory trials were a true testament to chronometric precision. On top of that, they brought brands lots of fame. The well-known observatories witnessed and attached their names to the incredible levels of precision that the expert watchmakers at different brands were able to achieve. Zenith participated in these trials as early as 1897. Over time, the brand’s movements won a record total of 2,333 chronometry prizes.
The one movement that has become a legend for winning a total of 235 chronometry prizes is Zenith’s 135-O. It’s a record in the history of watchmaking. Ephrem Jobin designed the caliber at the request of Charles Ziegler, who was Zenith’s technical director in the late 1940s. This chronometer movement was specifically developed to compete in chronometry competitions at the Observatories of Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington, or Besançon.
The special Zenith caliber 135-O
The “135” designation came from the movement’s dimensions. It combined its 13 lignes (or 30mm diameter, the maximum size allowed in the wristwatch category competition at the Neuchâtel Observatory trial) with its 5mm thickness. Zenith produced this caliber from 1949 to 1962 in two versions. The first was the regular caliber 135 for commercial use, while the other was the 135-O exclusively for observatory chronometry trials.
Zenith’s renowned chronométriers Charles Fleck and René Gygax were in charge of regulating the movement. From 1950 to 1954, it won a record five consecutive first prizes in the wristwatch category at the Neuchâtel Observatory. In 2022, Zenith revived the legendary caliber 135-O through an exceptional collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. Voutilainen restored and decorated 10 vintage movements dating back to the glorious 1950–1954 winning streak. This ultra-exclusive limited series was universally praised by fans and press alike. It was followed by a special unique piece for Susan G. Komen that fetched more than €300,000 later that year.
A new caliber 135 powers the Zenith G.F.J.
To celebrate the 160th anniversary of Zenith, the folks at the brand decided to revive the historically important caliber 135 once more. This time, however, Zenith created a new version of it. It uses the same architecture, dimensions, and overall look as the original but, where possible, also incorporates available modern-day techniques and materials. For example, the power reserve has increased from the vintage version’s 40 hours to a more contemporary 72 hours. Additionally, a new gear train features an optimized tooth geometry to improve the caliber’s efficiency. Furthermore, the movement incorporates an offset center wheel, creating space to accommodate the oversized balance wheel that improves both precision and stability.
Modern improvements combined with a distinct finish
The new caliber 135 operates at a 18,000vph frequency and features regulation screws on the balance wheel and a Breguet overcoil. What remained is the signature double-arrow-shaped regulator that allows for precise adjustment. Another modern improvement, though, is the addition of a hacking mechanism, allowing the wearer to set the time exactly to the second. Lastly, the balance staff is now protected by spring-mounted jewel settings. The movement is a COSC-certified chronometer, which Zenith regulates to perform within ±2 seconds per day.
When I saw the finishing of the movement, it instantly excited me. The bridges feature a “brick” guilloché pattern that looks stunning. It gives the movement a completely different aesthetic than what we usually see. Inspiration for this brick pattern came from the red- and white-painted bricks of the Zenith Manufacture that form the letters G.F.J., referring to the initials of the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. Contrasting with the finish of the bridges are the circular satin finish on the barrel cover and the black-polished finish of the crown wheel. Finally, the large jewels add a hint of color to the intriguing overall aesthetic.
The Zenith G.F.J. uses the brick pattern for a clever link to the past
The special brick pattern also returns on the dial, but let’s first address some specs and details. Zenith’s G.F.J. has an elegant 39.15mm platinum case with a 10.5mm thickness and a 45.15mm lug-to-lug. This case features a stepped bezel and an intricate mix of brushed and polished finishes. Its beautifully curved and stepped lugs give it character, and the crown proudly features the initials G.F.J.
Within the case lies a lovely blue dial consisting of three parts. Its outer ring, which holds white gold hour and minute markers, features the same brick guilloché pattern as we saw the movement. Notice how the minute track consists of 40 hand-applied white gold beads. I adore this detail. Next, the central portion of the dial is lapis lazuli. It features the brand and model name printed in white and the applied Zenith star in white gold.
Lastly, the large sub-dial for the small seconds at 6 o’clock is made from blue mother-of-pearl. The baton-style central hour and minute hands and the small seconds hand are all executed in white gold. Because of the use of natural materials, each of the dials created will be unique.
Final thoughts on the new Zenith G.F.J.
The Zenith G.F.J. comes with three straps. The first is dark blue alligator leather, while the second is black calfskin. Lastly, buyers will get a blue Saffiano calfskin strap. All three feature a platinum pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J initials. As a nice detail, that is also where the brick pattern returns to remind you of how special this watch is. Zenith mentions there will also be a seven-row platinum bracelet (available upon request) featuring center links embossed with the brick pattern. Although the press kit did not show any images of the bracelet, I can only imagine how stunning it will make the watch look.
Fittingly, Zenith will produce 160 pieces of this limited edition. Each watch will cost €52,900 and feature its unique LE number engraved on the case back. While that individual number is a nice reminder of the watch’s special status, the other distinct details here would more than suffice. Indeed, the new Zenith G.F.J. is a spectacular timepiece, both visually and technically, and a wonderful way to celebrate the brand’s 160th anniversary.
Bringing the legendary caliber 135 back in modern form is a brilliant move. It highlights a part of Zenith’s history that many often overlook. While the brand’s El Primero legacy is an easy conversation starter, its caliber 135 is equally impressive. The G.F.J. shows there is more to Zenith that makes it so easy to fall in love with. Even more specifically, the quest for chronometric precision is engrained in the brand’s DNA. Add the spectacular design with the variety of materials and clever brick pattern (a feature that will surely split opinions), and this watch vividly reminds me why I love Zenith so much.
What do you think of the Zenith G.F.J.? Don’t hesitate to share your opinions in the comments below!
