There might be debate about which brand released the first modern dive watch, but it’s safe to say that Zodiac was one of the first three. The Sea Wolf debuted in the 1950s — 1957 seems to be the year of the watch’s release, but this is still up for debate — and its original design is still going strong. So is Zodiac. The brand, founded in 1882, went belly up in the 1990s, but it has been part of Fossil Group since 2001. While the “Sea Wolf” name didn’t survive the bankruptcy and the vision of the new owner, “Super Sea Wolf” did, and the descendants of those watches are doing well. The new 18K-gold-plated Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver is a good example. It’s an opulent celebration of the watch’s history. It also looks like an “OG” in its shiny attire.

No, the shiny Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver (ref. ZO9308) with its 18K-gold-plated case and bracelet is not a shiny homage to the original Sea Wolf from the 1950s. Zodiac doesn’t decorate the watch with a symbolic gold medal or claim it was the first. Instead, the press release states that the watch is “a reflection of the moments when the sunrise meets the sea.” Okay, well, in that case, let’s talk about the price. Some say one of the few things you can’t buy is the sunrise, but this watch equivalent of that daily natural phenomenon costs US$4,995. There will be just 300 “sunrise timepieces” available, though. You be the judge if that is a fair price for a sunrise.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver

Shine on, you crazy Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver

Say what you will about the price, but if you’re after shiny golden looks, the latest Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver can rival a watch eight times more expensive. Yes, the dive watch I’m referring to also originates from the 1950s, and it has a solid yellow gold case and bracelet instead of gold-plated ones. But, hey, from a distance, gold is gold. By using 18K gold as a plating instead of the base material for the case and the five-row bracelet, Zodiac managed to create the look without the cost. And by using a wafer-thin layer of 18K yellow gold, which is still 75% pure gold, it’s also more luxurious than a gold-colored PVD coating that mimics the hue of the precious metal.

There’s something very polarizing about yellow gold dive watches on yellow gold bracelets. Some see them as vulgar, while others see them as camp, status symbols, or prestigious. Pick the term that fits your opinion, but in any case, the 18K-gold-plated Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver sure is provocative.

Zodiac

Provoking an opinion

It’s impossible not to have an opinion on the Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver in its 18K-gold-plated attire. It made me laugh when I first saw it, slightly uncomfortable when I put it on my wrist — I don’t think I can/will ever own/wear a yellow or rose gold watch on a matching bracelet — and also a bit giddy. Yes, after the initial mental discomfort, a grin appeared, and I slowly but surely began to understand this watch’s appeal. It could be great for people who want something a bit loud, outspoken, slightly obnoxious, and good fun but also a well-made watch they can wear everywhere.

Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver

Is this gold-plated Super Sea Wolf for the die-hard dive-watch enthusiast? Why not? If you’re into the brand and appreciate what it does, this gold version might be the crown of your collection. And please also remember that Zodiac has done some more exotic models in the past — let’s take the Super Sea Wolf GMT with its pink and white bezel insert as an example. With that lighthearted watch in mind, you should also look at this 18K-gold-plated watch. It’s like the Joker said: “Why so serious?”

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver

Wearing the golden Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver

The watch feels just like any other Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver on the wrist. It has the same design, which is not revolutionary but trusted because it takes inspiration from vintage models. I do love the long, angular lugs, for instance. With a case that’s 40mm wide, 13.6mm thick (including the crystal), and 48.5mm from lug to lug, it should sit comfortably on many people’s wrists. It did on my 18cm wrist, anyway. The five-row bracelet with a spring-loaded (expandable) butterfly clasp also didn’t give me any reason to complain.

Zodiac

Once again, Zodiac has proven it knows how to work with colors. This 18K gold-plated watch has a unidirectional diving bezel with a black ceramic insert and pairs that not with a black dial but a dark blue one. On paper, that doesn’t work, but in practice, it does. The two colors, which are almost too close in hue for comfort, bring depth and dynamics because they are placed in a yellow-golden micro-universe. And dive-watch purists might have to say something about the sunray finishing of the dial, but this gold-plated Super Sea Wolf is not a sober tool watch. It is still water resistant to 200 meters, though, so this shiny creature will do its job when called upon.

Sea Wolf

Final words on the gold-plated Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver

Inside the shiny Super Sea Wolf beats an automatic Swiss Technology Production (STP) 1-21 movement. STP is the movement maker of the Fossil Group, and the 1-21 is based on the ETA 2824-2 and Sellita SW200-1. It’s a no-nonsense 4Hz movement with a 40-hour power reserve. There’s not a lot to say about the caliber. Luckily, the watch does have the qualities to start a debate, though. It did at HQ, and I’m quite sure that by now, you want to leave your thoughts in the comments below. Just hold your horses for a minute while I wrap up this article. The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver in 18K plated gold is a love/hate type of watch. You either adore it, or you don’t.

But apart from not taking this watch too seriously, we should see it as a logical extension of a collection. There are plenty more gold dive watches in the sea. For instance, the two other famous 1950s-born dive watches are available in much more exclusive/pricey gold references. It was about time Zodiac joined the club. Now it has done so with a watch that shares the opulent look but is much more affordable. Zodiac also realizes that 300 is the right number of units for this limited edition. Undoubtedly, Zodiac made a well-considered calculation and assessment so all 300 will reach the enthusiast OGs who “get” the watch and can afford it. I also get it. It took a bit of time, but the gold-plated Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver managed to put a smile on my face. Are you smiling?

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver
Reference
ZO9308
Dial
Deep blue with sunray finish, applied luminous indexes, and date window
Case Material
Stainless steel with 18K gold plating, black ceramic bezel insert
Case Dimensions
40mm (diameter) × 48.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 13.5mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Stainless steel with 18K gold plating, screw-in
Movement
STP 1-21: automatic with manual winding and hacking, 28,800vph frequency, 40-hour power reserve, 26 jewels
Water Resistance
200 meters (660 feet)
Strap
Five-row stainless steel bracelet with 18K gold plating and spring-loaded (expandable) butterfly clasp
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, seconds), date, 60-minute dive bezel
Price
US$4,995
Special Note(s)
Limited to 300 pieces